Bottletree’s Secret: The Onion Parmesan Bagel

Published in… honestly, I don’t think I ever sent this to my editor. I started med school in July 2016, and it slipped through the cracks. So it just lives here. (I really like this piece.)

by JOHN FINCHER BOBO

As the final knee-walkers leak out of The Library Sports Bar and a swarm of sorority girls pool their cash for a cab ride home, Lauren Dayan slips down the sleepy pavement of Van Buren Avenue and unlocks the door. She is a bread baker at Bottletree Bakery, and she has ovens to answer to. 

But 1:30am on a Saturday morning is the break of no ordinary day. It's the rare day of the week that my favorite food in Oxford even exists. The Onion Parmesan Bagel. Only 24 are made and they're sold out by 9:30 sharp. It may be the most limited edition food item in the state of Mississippi, and certainly the most coveted. Get it with the homemade garlic/dill cream cheese and you'll leave your loved ones, move to Oxford, and never look back. You've been warned.

In 2003 my friend from Kosciusko, let's call her Oprah, listed Bottletree's Apple Ruffle Tart as part of her "favorite things” collection. That Apple Tart (see recipe next page) is something special, really, but to those who prefer the savory over the sweet first thing in the morning—the Onion-Parm Bagel is for your “favorite things” list. Clearly I’m kidding about being pals with Oprah, but this bagel is no joke. It has managed to fly under the mainstream radar despite being around as long as the bakery itself. 

It’s almost 3:00am. Lauren rolls out bagel dough into fat wheels and paints them with an egg wash like any other bagel. Then come the onions. Whatever she has on hand, purple or white, gets sautéed and tossed on top. Now for all that heavenly cheese. Doing no less than God’s work, she covers them with mounds of mozzarella and parmesan and throws them into the oven. Once they’re ready she pulls’em out and lets the bread finish its chemistry for about 15 minutes. Finally they're on the rack, ready for the lucky few who get Bottletree’s version of a Willy Wonka golden ticket.

Sometime around 7:00, when the crowd shuffles in and Oxford wipes the sleep from its eyes, a grin and a sigh escapes from a lissome bread baker leaning against the back wall. With floured hands she sets her coffee mug in the sink, grabs her keys, and sneaks out the back door.

Next time you're spending a Friday night in Oxford, resist the snooze button (you're heading for some amazing coffee anyway), and feast on this bagel. You'll be glad you did. Just pray you're there early enough. 

Cardamom Apple Tarts (Oprah’s “Favorite Things”)

THE CRUST

Makes 12 to 14 4-inch circles

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoon sugar

1 1/2 cup unsalted butter chilled or frozen (preferred,) chopped into small pieces

1/4 to 1/2 cup ice water

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Blend flour, salt and sugar with a whisk. Begin to slowly pinch in the pieces of butter evenly throughout, working quickly with your fingers. The heat from your hands can melt the butter and you want as little of that as possible.

3. Once you’ve got the consistency of cornmeal, begin to slowly add a few drops of ice water. Add water, mix, add water, mix. Repeat this movement until your dough starts to come together and sticks to your fingers. You do not want to over mix or it will be stretchy and tough.

4. Toss onto a clean surface sprinkled with flour and press into a flat disc. Generously flour the top and bottom and roll out to 1/4-inch thick. Use a 4-inch circular cookie cutter to cut out your crusts.

5. Place these on a lightly floured sheet pan and chill for 30 minutes while you make your filling.

THE FILLING

Makes approximately 6 cups

2 Granny Smith apples

2 Honey Crisp or other sweet red apple

2 tablespoon ground ginger

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon clove

1 teaspoon nutmeg

1 tablespoon ground cardamom

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup brown sugar

2 tablespoon flour

1 tablespoon vanilla

1. Rinse apples and slice into very thin half moons. Set aside.

2. In a medium-sized bowl, mix the spices, sugar and flour with a whisk.

3. Pour in the cream and blend. Add honey and let sit for 5 minutes.

4. In another bowl, place apple slices and pour in about 1/4 cup of the filling. With your hands, gently coat each slice until all are evenly coated.

ASSEMBLE THE PIES

1. Take out your prepared crusts. Layer the apple slices close together on each of the crusts, approximately 7 to 8 slices per disc of dough. A fan shape works really well.

2. Brush the extra filling all over the apples with a pastry brush, making sure to get the filling down in between the slices.

3. Beat your egg white and use it to brush the sides of the crusts. Sprinkle sugar lightly over each tart.

4. Place your pan in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until the pies and pie crusts have turned to a golden brown.

5. Take out of the oven, cool and serve.